Rheem RTGH-95DVN Prestige Indoor, Direct Vent, Natural Gas, Condensing Tankless Water Heater Review

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(More customer reviews)After installing a new high efficiency gas furnace and central air conditioner, I discovered that my 15 year old gas tank water heater was leaking. I had a choice: either replace the tank heater with new one for about $500.00 or upgrade to a new high efficiency gas tankless water heater.
I wanted to go with the tankless choice to provide endless hot water, but I was concerned with the potential difficulty of the installation. There were three key issues with replacing a tank heater with a tankless water heater.
First, I wanted to keep the new water heater in the same central basement location as the old tank water heater. That necessitated the choice of a "Condensing" type tankless water heater because they vent the exhaust through standard 3 inch PVC drain pipe (about $1 per foot). The non-condensing type tankless water heaters have a higher exhaust temperature and require very expensive stainless steel exhaust piping. This type of heater are usually mounted on an outside wall to shorten the exhaust pipe length. So, I chose the Rheem condensing tankless water heater, but I still needed to run two 25 foot runs of PVC pipe to feed the intake combustion air and to exhaust the combustion gases. Since I had just done the same procedure when I installed the 95% efficient gas furnace, I knew that it was time consuming, but within my abilities.
The next issue was the water pipe plumbing. I have done a little copper pipe plumbing in the past, it was functional but not pretty. So, I knew I could get the job done. The key problem was that the old tank water heater had the cold inlet and the hot outlet pipes at the top of the tank and the tankless heater needed the connections at the bottom. I would guess that they use the bottom connection to eliminate the chance of water leaking on top of the heater. The heater has a very sophisticated computer control system that needs to be protected. I mounted the new heater on a 2x4 frame with a OSB sheathing and ran the water pipes behind the mounting between the exposed stud wall of the mechanical room. This also helped free up room to run the PVC piping up and through the exposed floor trusses in the ceiling.
The last issue was the natural gas supply. This tankless water heater requires a much higher gas flow supply as compared to the tank water heater it replaced. While this might seem counter intuitive; why should a more efficient appliance take more fuel than a less efficient appliance? The reason is that the tankless water heater must heat the cold water very quickly, in just the few seconds that the water is running through the heater on its way the the hot water tap in your house. This water heater needs 199,900 BTU of natural gas. My old tank water heater used 40,000 BTU. This large increase required two changes in the gas supply. First, I had the replace the 1/2 inch black pipe gas line that fed the old tank water heater with a 3/4 inch supply line. Second, I need to have the gas utility company replace the 240,000 BTU meter outside my house with a upgraded 400,000 BTU meter to accommodate the nearly 200,000 BTU tankless water heater, the 115,000 furnace, the 66,000 gas range and the 20,000 gas clothes dryer. Some utilities will do this for free, but in my area (near Chicago) they charge $220.00 minus what they "calculate" as increased revenue from additional gas usage. While there will probably be less overall gas usage, the utility just looks at the difference in the old gas appliance and the new gas appliance. They estimate the new meter will cost about $160.00 net. I don't need to get this completed until the winter heating season when the furnace needs to be run at the same time as the water heater.
I didn't have much problem installing the Rheem tankless water heater. But it did take two solid days of work. I was able to perform the whole install without any assistance. I am a pretty good DIYer, but I don't think that it took any great skill, just a thorough reading of the instructions (the Rheem instructions are very good and they are available on their web site), a little YouTube How-To video research and a written plan including how to mount the heater and making the connections. I watched the set of videos on the Rheem web site. While they cover the older non-condensing type heaters, they are a good starting point.
[...]I don't know what it would cost to have a professional install this heater, I would guess that it would take 6 to 8 hours of labor plus supplies. I spent about $350.00 on copper piping and fittings, gas pipe and fittings, PVC pipe and fittings and various miscellaneous supplies. Also, don't forget to budget in a set of "Service Valves". They cost about $80.00 to $150.00 per set. They are needed to provide an easy way to periodically flush the heater to clean any hard water deposits.
The Rheem tankless water heater worked great right from the initial start-up. My family enjoys the endless supply of hot water and we don't have to plan our showers around each others schedule or the the use of the clothes washer.

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Mr. Heater MH200CV 200,000-BTU Propane Convection Heater Review

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(More customer reviews)Updated 3/19/11
Received a brand new hearter today! No cost for shipping either to or from the company. Based on the excellent customer service I am increasing the rating up to 4 stars. As I originally reported, the heater works very well at heating my garage.
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Updated 3/5/11
Contacted Mr. Heater and they had me box up the heater and they had FedEx pick it up at their expense. They say they will send a replacement once they have looked at the returned item.
Updated 2/26/11
I had been very pleased with this heater UNTIL today. I have used the heater several times during the past 2 months. Today I warmed up the garage and worked during the morning then shut down the heater and ran some errands. I started the heater this afternoon and after about about 10 minutes I looked over at the heater and there were FLAMES coming out from all sides and the main burner valve knob was on fire. I ran to the propane tank and got everything shut down - Thank goodness I was watching, the rubber propane hose could have easily melted and I would have had a wreck. It appears there was a malfunction on the burner valve that allowed gas to escape and ignite. Now 1 month past Amazon Return time I have to deal with manufacturer warranty. So now I have to mail it in, at my expense, and wait to see if they will stand behind the product. In the mean time I have no heat in the garage.
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I have only had this heater two days. That said, I took it home yesterday attached the propane (that was essentially all there was to set-up) and fired it up on low and it put out a pleasant heat.
This morning the temperature was about 6 below zero and I turned the heater on and set it on high. I let it run for about 15 minutes and the garage had warmed up significantly, it was at least 40-50 degrees and possibly warmer. I didn't check the thermometer (digital one in my car) until after I left the garage. But as I was driving my car away from the garage I noticed the temperature was rapidly counting down - at that point it was already down to 20 degrees - and continued down to the outside temperature of 6 below.
My garage is detached 30' X 30' with 14' high ceiling, so it was heating over 12,000 cubic feet.
This is a replacement space heater. The previous one was a Mr. Heater Portable Propane Forced Air Heater (jet heater). I was a bit worried with the fact that the new one was convection but that concern was unfounded. It actually heats the area much faster. The convection heater does not seem to put off nearly as much smell as the forced air heater, in fact it was essentially odorless. Although with this first test I did not use a fan to circulate the warm air, I am sure that will improve it's already impressive performance. Unlike the forced air heater, this one does not require an electrical connection to operate so all you have to do is supply the gas and turn it on. One possible drawback would be that I was able to use the forced air heater to thaw frozen pipes since you can direct the heat, and the convection heater won't work for that.
It does make noise as it burns the propane. If you have a weed burner, or a branding stove, that is what it sounds like. The volume increases at higher settings. It was a little quieter than the forced air heater though.

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The Mr. Heater MH200CV 30,000-80,000 Btu portable propane convection heater is ideal for heating very large indoor spaces of up to 4,700 square feet. The convection design draws cold air up from the floor through propane burners then distributes warm air out through the top, giving you 360-degree directional heat. The unit features a piezo push-button igniter, adjustable heat output control (from 75,000-200,000 Btu), and an "Insta-Lock" system for easy, tool-free assembly. For safety, the heater shuts off with loss of flame, and the sturdy base keeps it upright. The included 10-foot hose connects to 100-pound (minimum required) propane cylinder. CSA Certified. One-year limited warranty.--Josh Dettweiler
What's in the BoxHeater, thermocouple, manual, operating instructions, regulator, 10-foot hose

Five Tips for Buying a HeaterChoosing a space heater is a matter of sifting through a bewildering array of types, power ratings, and fuel sources. Let's break it down a little to make the process easier.

What are the different types of space heaters?
Radiant heaters emit infrared radiation that directly warms the objects in front of the heaters (rather than the surrounding air). If you only need heat by a desk or in a small section of a room, a radiant heater is quiet and will use very little power.
Forced-air heaters use a fan to blow air that has been warmed by metal or ceramic heating elements. A forced-air heater is appropriate for quickly heating up a small- to medium-sized room, but can be noisy.
Convection heaters draw cold air from the floor; the air is warmed by heating coils and emitted from the top of the heater. A convection heater is appropriate for quickly heating up a small- to medium-sized room, but also can be noisy.
Radiators work by heating oil enclosed in a reservoir, gradually heating the surrounding air. If heating speed isn't an issue, you might want to opt for a radiator. These are extremely quiet and effective--perfect for bedrooms.


Should I buy an electric or a combustion model?If you want a heater that will be available in emergencies, or that can heat areas larger than a single room, choose a "combustion" model--one that is powered by a gas or fuel like propane, kerosene, natural gas, or diesel. Which fuel type you choose depends largely on convenience and local availability. For example, diesel would be appropriate for a heater you take with you on long car trips.

How powerful a heater do I need?Heaters are rated by BTU, which stands for British Thermal Unit (the amount of heat needed to heat one pound of water by 1 degree F). To find out how many BTU you need:
Calculate the volume of the space to be heated by multiplying square footage by height.
Multiply that number by 4 if your insulation is poor, 3 if it's average, or 2 if it's good.
The resulting number is a ballpark figure for how many BTU you'll need.
Do space heaters cost a lot to operate? As a general rule, electric space heaters are more expensive to use than combustion models. To ensure energy efficiency, a thermostat is a must-have feature for any heater. For radiant heaters, models with a 360 degree heating surface can heat larger spaces. If you need a forced-air heater, models with ceramic elements tend to be more efficient.

Are space heaters a fire hazard?Space heaters are implicated in about 25,000 residential fires every year. To ensure proper safety, always follow the manufacturer's usage instructions and fill out the warranty card to receive informational updates from the manufacturer. Also, look for extra safety features such as an automatic shutoff switch that can shut down the unit if, for example, it gets upended. In addition, choose a model where the heating element is adequately enclosed within the unit.

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Omega Comfort OME 506 LPG Tankless Propane Gas Water Heater Review

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(More customer reviews)Seems a little fishy that these same two people commented on every Omega 2000 Group product, all on or around the exact same date (usually October 8, 2008), and gave every tankless water heater 5 stars. I suspect that these two are either Omega product dealers or manufacturers posting fake reviews to try and increase sales.

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TITAN SCR3 N160 Electric Tankless Water Heater Review

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(More customer reviews)The TITAN SCR3 N160 Electric Tankless Water Heater was easy to install. I bought a unit and my dad and I installed it in just a few hours. We are in Florida, so I figured this unit would more than handle our hot water needs.
Unfortunately, the unit stopped working after about a week. I called Titan and they explained to me how to reset the unit. I just had to turn off the breaker to the unit, then push a very small screw driver into a reset hole in the front of the unit until it clicked. The reset hole is not really noticeable unless you are looking for it.
I had to reset the unit several times during the course of getting the problem fixed.
After going back and forth between the seller, who stopped carrying the 160s, and the manufacturer, who said they would fix it if I shipped it to them, leaving me without hot water for several days, I finally got the seller to buy one for me from the manufacturer and have it drop shipped to me. I was not happy about having to pay shipping costs again and shipping costs to return the defective unit, but I didn't have much choice.
During this process of trying to get my water heater working, I did speak in detail to one of the techs at Titan and they told me these units are sensitive to sediment in the water and highly recommended putting a sediment filter in front of it. When I received the replacement unit, before putting it in, I bought a sediment filter from wal-mart and put in front of the input line.
The new unit is working great and our showers are plenty hot. It's an interesting side-effect, but our dishes in our dishwasher are cleaner, too, but I attribute this more to adding the sediment filter to the hot water line.
We can't take more than one shower at a time or run the dishwasher while taking a shower, which we expected but this really isn't a problem for our family. The bath water comes out plenty hot as well without any problems.

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Webstone Valves 44443PR 3/4" NPT Tankless Water Heater Valve Kit Review

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(More customer reviews)Flawless operation and well designed. If you cinch down the connection to water heater too tight or remove the fitting too many times, expect to have to replace the rubber grommet inside fitting. No fault of the part though.
I would have bought these again, especially after pricing all over the internet and looking at other valve options. These are high quality and Amazon price was great deal when I picked this. Very satisified.

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Noritz NRC111-SV NG Indoor/Outdoor Condensing Tankless Natural Gas Water Heater, 8.4 GPM Review

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(More customer reviews)This water heater works perfectly for my needs. I have six children. Cost savings on a water heater was not the issue, running out of hot water was the problem. This heater works perfectly. There is a small time lag (a few seconds) that you have to wait for the hot water. But everyone can shower or bathe as needed, and the hot water keeps coming. This unit will easily support two showers at once. I installed a small undersink electric water heater in the kitchen to even out the time lag at the kitchen sink for instant hot water there and we are happy.

Click Here to see more reviews about: Noritz NRC111-SV NG Indoor/Outdoor Condensing Tankless Natural Gas Water Heater, 8.4 GPM

Noritz Direct Vent Condensing Water Heater Noritz is proud to introduce our most efficient tankless heaters, the next generation in tankless technology - condensing heaters. This innovation utilizes a dual heat exchanger, a fusion of stainless steel and copper heat exchangers. The 100% stainless steel component captures the residual heat from the exhaust temperature to preheat the incoming water before it runs through the main copper heat exchanger. This results in dramatic reduction of carbon dioxide and increases the heater's efficiency level to over 93%! Another benefit of this technology is lower exhaust temperatures, which means less costly PVC can be used for its venting. A PVC adapter is built into the heater for easy installation. It's the coolest and greenest tankless water heater available today! This is the highest performing condensing unit on the market today. Some other brand(s) may have a bit higher efficiency rating, but there is a fine balance between the efficiency level and flow rate performance. At Noritz we strive to maximize efficiency levels without sacrifing the hot water output, temperature fluctuations, and water pressure. Comfort and safety is something we do not compromise on. Natural gas Condensing technology - The most advanced Noritz unit, over 93% efficiency level! Combi-system set-up - Open loop system functionality for both potable water heating and space heating combination system.

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Eccotemp 40H-NG Outdoor Gas Tankless Water Heater, 135,000 British Thermal Unit Review

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(More customer reviews)Was very pleased with this water heater, came and did not need a lot of extra stuff to install. Works wonderful and now I am sure I am saving on gas ever time a use it.

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Stop throwing away money each and every month with your old inefficient storage tank water heater! It is time to switch to an Eccotemp tankless water heater. The Eccotemp 40H is one of the most affordable and reliable true whole house tankless water heaters on the market! Rated at 6.3 GPM, it is the ideal choice for a 3 bedroom, 2 bath home. Why Eccotemp Tankless Water Heaters? Energy Efficiency: Saving you money each and every month. Instead of a standing pilot light, gas is only used when there is a demand for hot water. This will result in most homes of an average savings of 20-40% off of your utility bill Saving Space: Weighing only 38 pounds and about the size of a briefcase, you will free up an average of 9 square feet of floor space - adding to the value of your home! Reliability: Eccotemp 40 series water heaters come with a 10 year warranty on the heat exchanger and an average life expectancy of 20 years. And, since there is no standing water, you will never have to worry about a ruptured tank again! Consult with your home owners insurance on additional rebates. Technical Specs and data: * Gas Type: Natural Gas * Gas Inlet: 3/4 inch * Water Inlet: 1/2 inch * Water Outlet: 1/2 inch * Power Supply: 110 volt * Energy Factor: 0.83 * Indoor mount Flow Chart/Temperature Rise/Delta T: * 35 Degrees F: 6.0 GPM * 45 Degrees F: 4.57 GPM (avg. rise in most Southern climates) * 65 Degrees F: 3.82 GPM (avg. rise in most Northern climates) * 77 Degrees F: 2.6 GPM

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Noritz NRC111-DV NG Condensing Tankless Natural Gas Water Heater, 8.4 GPM Review

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(More customer reviews)I had this model (Noritz NRC111-DV / 842) professionally installed about a year ago. My review will not focus on installation, but strictly on the unit's operation and performance relative to a conventional 40-50 gallon natural gas tank water heater which it replaced.
I'll start with some background on how I made the decision to go with this unit. I had a 15 year old 40 gallon natural gas tank water heater in my home that was showing signs of failing...excessive rumbling from scale buildup inside the tank and inability to to produce enough hot water to meet peak demand for my family of 5. I plan to stay in my home for the foreseeable future and had no problem making a long-term investment. The primary deciding factors for me were cost (initial cost, operating costs, maintenance costs) and hot water capacity to meet peak demand. I had researched several types of tank and tankless water heaters, including the traditional 40 and 50 gallon tank units, condensing tank units, solar, and tankless units from Rinnai, Takagi, Noritz, Navien, Rheem/Paloma, etc. I spoke with several trusted local plumbers and read professional plumber discussion forums about real-world problems encountered with the new tankless water heaters. All units researched were natural gas varieties, not electric or LP gas and most of my research was gathered in late 2009.
It's sometimes hard to sort through all the manufacturer's claims and marketing materials about why their unit is best, so I placed more emphasis on the opinions of professional plumbers for the quality/durability part of my decision and my own calculations (made some pretty complex spreadsheets) for the financial side of things. This process led me to conclude that Noritz was one of the better brands of tankless water heaters for the optimal combination of engineering/performance, manufacturing quality, warranty/durability, and cost.
Once settled on Noritz, I had to determine whether a condensing (unit being reviewed here) or non-condensing unit would be best and how both of those compared to a traditional tank water heater. From a hot water capacity standpoint, the 40 gallon tank could not cut it, and frankly, neither could the 50 gallon tanks unless I went to a "quick recovery" model which essentially just had a higher output burner and would cost me 50% more than a regular one. I could alter the showering habits of my family, which could be done currently, though in planning for the future, realized that there were many scenarios where I would still need more hot water (frequent guests/visitors staying with us, kids in sports, use of a whirlpool bathtub in master bedroom, etc.) than what I could get out of a 50 gallon tank. Condensing tank water heaters intrigued me, though ultimately proved cost prohibitive and were not nearly as efficient (overall energy factor, not just thermal efficiency rating) as I thought they would be. The "endless hot water" of the tankless units would certainly meet the peak capacity need (but be careful to "size" the unit to your needs appropriately), though also concerned me that people would start taking 30 minute showers routinely and cancel out the potential cost savings! In the end, the difference in cost for the condensing (more efficient, unit being reviewed) vs. non-condensing unit was about $600 in my case, and the extra capacity and efficiency made more long-term sense.
I do have to say that the current 30% federal tax credit played heavily into my decision to go with a tankless water heater, and I probably would not have gone this route without this "discount". In my opinion, the economics of tankless water heaters don't make much sense at current pricing levels (year 2009-2010) without a credit or discount, since the payback period vs. a traditional tank would exceed the typical 20 year expected service life of the unit. These units are also more difficult for the do-it-yourselfer to install and I believe many of the tankless manufacturers will not honor the warranty unless installed by a properly certified plumber. I say all this because the installation costs, especially if this is a retrofit into an existing home and not new construction, can add another $1-2K to the total initial cost. I found a quality local plumber certified by Noritz who offered a good price, which along with the 30% tax credit, made the installation costs basically free and I was just paying about what the unit itself would cost. If your total out-of-pocket cost is going to be more than a few hundred dollars above the cost of unit (net after tax credits, etc.), you should think twice. You can still do it, though your primary motivation at that point would be more about the environment and being green rather than pure financial sense and keeping more green in your pocket. Of course, some heavy users may find the endless supply of a tankless necessary and still more economical than putting together two 50 gallon tanks in series even with high installation costs and no tax credits.
So, how does it work? Quite well. You don't need to change anything about how you use your hot water fixtures...just turn them on, i.e. a shower, and wait for the hot water to start flowing. Compared to the tank water heater I had previously, I would say that it takes an extra 10-15 seconds to get hot water. This is due to the flow sensor taking a second or two to turn on the burner, a few seconds to actually heat the first amount of water that is now flowing, and in my case, an extra 10 feet or so of water pipe that was needed to install the tankless unit. The unit does all the work to heat water to your desired temperature and flow rate, and maintains temperature and flow well--no issues and the "coldwater sandwich" effect is pretty minimal with this unit. During the coldest part of winter, my incoming water temperature was about 40 degrees F and I set the output temperature at 115. This 75 degree rise gives me about 5 gal/min capacity, or about 300 gallons an hour. During the summer months, my incoming water temperature was about 75 degrees, and the 40 degree rise gave me about 9 gal/min capacity, or about 540 gallons an hour. Both figures easily exceed the "first hour" ratings of 40-50 gallon tank water heaters. In the worst case winter scenario, I have been able to have 2 showers running and a faucet moderately open (normal use) at the same time. If I attempted the same scenario with my old 40 gallon tank, I would run out of hot water in about 7 minutes. This really is a benefit of the tankless unit in that I can have 2 showers going at the same time, and have people take back-to-back showers without having to give the old tank water heater time to recover or limiting people to extremely short shower times.
I had to set my old tank water heater at about 130 degrees F in order to make the hot water last long enough. In contrast, I just set the temperature I want with the tankless (115 works best for me). There is a blower fan in the tankless unit that makes very little noise in my opinion (I expected worse), and since mine is installed in my basement, I never hear it running.
Since my furnace shares a gas line with the water heater, I could not verify the efficiency improvements until spring when I was no longer using the natural gas furnace. I am billed in MCF units (not therms) on my gas bill, and after I adjusted for year over year changes in outdoor temperature and its impact on incoming water temperature, used 48% less natural gas May-September than the year ago period when I was using the old tank water heater. My calculations were projecting about a 42% decrease based on the same hot water usage, so while my family's hot water usage remained much the same as the year ago period and we did not deliberately change our usage patterns, I suspect we used a bit less this past year and that accounted for the 6% difference in projected vs. actual. Further analysis revealed that about 2/3 of the 48% decrease (32%) came from simply having the burner off when not in use (an inherent benefit of all tankless designs), with the other 1/3 of the decrease (16%) coming from improved thermal efficiency when the unit actually was running. Here is an interesting fact: my unit runs about 35 minutes a day on average, meaning that nearly 23 and a half hours a day are spent doing nothing--no pilot light and no periodic burners to keep the water in the tank warm--nice!
The tankless unit requires a standard electrical outlet and it consumes 7 watts per hour in standby mode according to my kill-o-watt usage meter. When in use, the blower fan modulates and typically consumes electricity at a rate of 40-100 watts per hour. The only thing that takes a bit more electricity is the frost prevention cycle, which comes on as needed to keep the internals from freezing during temperatures well below freezing. This uses about 200 watts per hour and usually stays on for about 30 minutes at a time when needed, which isn't all that often. In any case, I calculated that this unit adds only about $1/month or $12/year to my electric bill at a rate of just over 10 cents per kwh--pretty minimal.
Maintenance-wise, it is important to do an annual flushing of the heat exchanger with some vinegar or similar solution to remove any scale buildup that might reduce the lifespan and/or performance of the unit. Make sure you have isolation valves installed with the unit, and then you will need a small portable electric pump, a 5 gallon bucket, 4-5 gallons of vinegar, and let it run/circulate for about 45 minutes. This is especially important to do if you have "hard water" as defined in the owner's manual. My water company reports 120ppm hardness or about 7.5 grains/gallon and this would be classified as "hard water" though not excessive. So, this costs about $10/year in...Read more›

Click Here to see more reviews about: Noritz NRC111-DV NG Condensing Tankless Natural Gas Water Heater, 8.4 GPM

Noritz 0843 Series Direct Vent Condensing Water HeaterNoritz is proud to introduce our most efficient tankless heaters, the next generation in tankless technology - condensing heaters.This innovation utilizes a dual heat exchanger, a fusion of stainless steel and copper heat exchangers.The 100% stainless steel component captures the residual heat from the exhaust temperature to preheat the incoming water before it runs through the main copper heat exchanger.This results in dramatic reduction of carbon dioxide and increases the heater's efficiency level to over 93%!Another benefit of this technology is lower exhaust temperatures, which means less costly PVC can be used for its venting. A PVC adapter is built into the heater for easy installation.It's the coolest and greenest tankless water heater available today!This is the highest performing condensing unit on the market today.Some other brand(s) may have a bit higher efficiency rating, but there is a fine balance between the efficiency level and flow rate performance.At Noritz we strive to maximize efficiency levels without sacrifing the hot water output, temperature fluctuations, and water pressure.Comfort and safety is something we do not compromise on.Liquid propane, direct vent - indoor only (image is of the indoor/outdoor model)Condensing technology - The most advanced Noritz unit, over 93% efficiency level!

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Takagi T-KJr NG Natural Gas Tankless Water Heater, 140,000 BTU Review

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(More customer reviews)The heater installed easily and works very well; however the unit was not complete as delivered. After the unit was installed the plumber discovered that the heater was missing the inlet water filter and O-ring seal. I called the service center listed on the installation manual and got the usual response that the retailer was somehow responsible for the contents of the shipment. I sent Amazon an E-mail and got no response; I sent Takagi an E-mail and got no response. Finally I had to go to the Takagi service center in Irvine and purchase the missing parts; obviously I could have sent the heater back to Amazon and had a replacement unit delivered, but think about how much trouble and expense this would have been compared to the missing parts that were less that $10. One final note: I know that Takagi tested the unit before it left their factory because there was still water in it when the plugs were removed from the connection ports, but there was also Teflon thread dope in the inlet port which is a calling card for sloppy workmanship and possible trouble depending on where else in the heater it may be lodged.

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Released in 2003, the T-K Jr. is the smallest water heater in the Takagi tankless line. But this small, but powerful unit - with gas inputs up to 140,000 BTU per hour - can meet all the hot-water needs of a small American home or apartment with one or two bathrooms, as well as smaller commercial applications. Designed to virtually do anything a 40-gallon tank-type water heater can do and more, the compact, wall mounted T-K Jr. can support hydronic baseboard or radiant floor heating applications, as well as provide domestic hot water to plumbing fixtures and appliances. The T-K Jr. has an efficiency rating of 81%, using natural gas, and 83% with propane. At an average (rise in temperature) of 60°F in warmer areas - where the winter ground water is 60°F and with the output set at 120°F - the unit will provide 3.8 GPM, or 228 GPH. In colder areas where the input temperature may be 40°F or less you can expect a flow rate of about 2.7 GPM or 162 GPH. Cost-efficient and environmentally friendly, the T-K Jr. can be converted into a direct-vent unit by using the optional TV09 conversion kit for installation in a garage, a utility closet or any confined space in which makeup air may be limited. Please refer to "Accessories" for more information on venting options. Using the average of 60°F input water cited above, the T-K Jr. can provide enough hot water for one shower and a lavatory basin at a time; or one low-flow shower (2.5 GPM or less) and an appliance, such as a dishwasher or washing machine, at the same time. For much colder input temperatures, such as 40°F or lower, this unit can provide endless hot water for consecutive uses; that is, running only one major fixture at a time. Please refer to the flow charts for specific rates. The four preset temperatures on the unit are: 113°F, 122°F, 140°F, and 182°F. To achieve any temperatures other than those presets, your client will require the TK-RE20 temperature controller.

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Eternal GU145S Condensing Hybrid Water Heater, 14.5 GPM Review

Average Reviews:

(More customer reviews)I've now owned the GU145S for about 9 months now and have used it through the winter which really lets you know how it performs. I live in Dallas, TX, so cold here is about 15F worst case for a few days per year and above freezing most of the time. Overall, for my house, it's a great unit, but I'd recommend a bigger one for cold weather. I had a few installations issues that I'll describe too. This was a do-it-yourself project where I ran the new electric, gas and plumbing moving the water heater into the attic.
General: Go for the S units as they have stainless steel internal parts, which should give you better life. The outside is for show, but the inside is what matters. The unit is unique in that it has a mini-2 gallon internal storage tank, which makes it put out hot water from the instant you turn it on. Remember, you still have to heat up the pipes between the unit and the faucet, so it does not mean instant hot water, but it does make it produce as good as a regular water heater would.
Installation: The unit comes with a mounting bracket and hex head wood screws. The wood screws were so cheap that they stripped when inserting them into predrilled holes. The air inlets come covered with packing tape which I was unable to completely remove, leaving unsightly tape and glue on the new stainless steel. This nice unit is marred with this ugliness. Beyond that, installation was a breeze. The best part of this unit is that you can vent it with schedule 40 PVC, saving you $400-$600 over stainless steel. Since these units PUSH air out with fans, you must have a sealed pipe all the way to the outside. Normal gas heaters use covection and don't care about leaky pipes. You CANNOT reuse your existing flue pipes. Also, you'll notice a condensate drain must be connected. It'll generate as much condensate as your AC, so be prepared for that. I did write the manufacturer a letter describing the minor installation problems and received no acknowledgement in reply.
Gas lines: Most folks that I've talked to regarding these units have avoided installing them because their house was not plumbed for enough gas. Once you need to have a new gas line installed, the installation price goes way up. (Electric units are similar in that you need more wire and breakers installed). I was luck enough to have 1 1/4 inch pipe in the attic already and was able to insert a tee. My unit needed a 3/4" final run.
Operation: I have this unit installed in the attic above the garage, so it the same temperature there as outside, less wind chill. I regularly operate two showers at the same time, and sometimes more. When it's 32F and greater outside, no problem. It's amazing that starting and stopping the tub or another shower or kitchen sink does nothing to an already running shower. No temperature drop or rise is noticed due to this units design! When the temperature is in the teens, two showers at the same time will be lukewarm. One is as hot as you'd like it, but two are not. If you have extended cold spells, I'd suggest the bigger unit. (And BTW, my cold water inlet pipes are insulated all the way to the unit).
Value: There's little value in tankless units unless you are using horribly made water heaters. I replaced two perfectly good (3 year old) 50 gallon tanks in series with this unit. I did it to remove these from my garage and to have a small footprint in the attic. The base cost of the 2 gas heaters was about $1300 new and the cost of this unit was $1600. My two 50 gal units were $259/yr (total $320/yr) and the cost of the tankless was $195. It's a long payback on operating costs alone.
Other: Here's what scares me.... If I lost one 50 gal unit, I could still take a hot shower using the other. With only one unit, if it must be serviced, cold showers for all while we're down. If you lose electricity, cold showers. The manufacturer does not appear to be friendly to the do-it-yourself types and as such, warns against internet or local purchases without an installer. They appear to make it seem that you'll not be warrantied if you do-it-yourself. If this concerns you, be careful. (I do have a recirculating pump installed that moves water thru the lines on a timer and thermostat. To the tankless unit, it is simply a hot water call. The GU145S works seamlessly with the recirculating pump.)
Summary: Do do this to save money. Do it because you need the convenience of size. I like the unit and would recommend it to others.

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Stiebel Eltron Mini 4 Electric Tankless Water Heater, 220 -240 Volt, 3.5 kW Review

Average Reviews:

(More customer reviews)These heaters are only designed to heat water if it is flowing at .5 gallons per minute, which is a trickle. A typical faucet is 1.5-2.2 gallons per minute. So if you want to use this at a sink to wash your hands, it will not work.
This will only work with the little tiny hot water taps.
However, it is marketed as if it will work with regular faucets, so I give it one star, and would give it negative stars if possible for this deception.

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Phase - 1
Voltage - 208/220-240
Wattage - 2.6/3.5
Amperage - 12.6/15.2
Min. required circuit breaker size - 20
Recommended wire size - 12
Min. water flow to activate unit - 0.50/2.0
Degree of protection - IP 24
according to IEC 529 -
Min. water resistivity - 2795 ohm x in / 1100 ohm x cm
Weight - 3.44 / 1.56
Dimensions (Height/Width/Depth) - 6.5 (16.5) / 3.25 (8.2) / 7.5 (19.0)
Working pressure - 150 / 10
Tested to pressure - 300 / 20
Volume of water in unit - 0.026 / 0.1
Water connections - for 3/8" O.D. flex connector

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Stiebel Eltron Tempra 29 Plus Electric Tankless Water Heater Review

Average Reviews:

(More customer reviews)For those who don't know, Stiebel Eltron make the best electric tankless heaters on the market. They have the digital thermostat, and it will keep your water to the exact temperature you set regardless of demand. I set mine to 106'F and it is exactly 106'F, regardless of if I have just 1 tap open or 5 plus a shower, dishwasher, etc...
As for installation it was fairly basic. Just an in and out for the plumbing and the electrical was fairly straightforward. You need 3 x 60A 208-204V lines plus a ground. That means 6 spaces in your breaker panel. This is the biggest electric tankless that can go on a 200A service. Anything larger and you need a 400A service. I am a licensed electrician so instalation was simple for me. Otherwise I would definitely hire an electrician to do the hookup. It can be intimidating to do the electical yourself with all the options. Do you use flex, tech cable, just plain old lumex, etc... I piped mine in using EMT and #6 wire, although you only need #8.
Construction quality is top notch. The manual is excellent. And it works like a charm. It is capable of giving 140'F scalding water just like a regular storage tank. But I set mine to 106'F; the temperature I want for taking a shower. I just turn the hot water faucet on and I get the exact tempature I want. No need to play with the cold water to get the temperature I want. No more fluctuations in temperature when a toilet, washer, or dishwasher kicks in while taking a shower. No need to have expensive mixing valves or temperature regulators. Also you eliminate the need of draining your storage tank every year or 2 and cleaning it out, replacing annode rods, or just waiting for it to leak and flood your basement after 10 years so you can replace it or call the power company to have a replacement rental installed.
I have a water softener as well so there should be no maintenance issues with the tankless. I am expecting a 30+year life cycle. I figure the cost of a good 12year storage water heater is around $500-600. This tankless water heater was [...]. But it will last 30 years as opposed to 15 years with a storage tank so it actually cvomes out to [...] for 2 storage tanks as opposed to [...] for the tankless. I save [...] in the long run. I also don't need temperature regulators or expensive faucets on my shower so I save money there. The tankless is also more efficient so I save a little bit again there. It all adds up. Also the maintenance of a hot water storage tank is a pain. And the risk of it leaking and flooding unless you replace it every 10 years even if it still works. Also it's no good to cook with hot water from a storage tank because of all the built up gook and grime and deposits in the tank that are in the water. Now I have pure water straight form the source, not water that has been sitting with deposits in a tank.
For the price this is the best electric water heater on the market. It is way cheaper than going solar which costs over [...]. But if you decide to upgrade and go solar, a tankless is a perfect compliment to bring your solar heater water up to the final temperature if required. So a tankless is not a wasted purchase if you decide to add a solar heater down the road.
Definitely 5 stars.


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Bosch ProTankless GWH C 800 ES NG Tankless Water Heater, Natural Gas Review

Average Reviews:

(More customer reviews)I have the Natural Gas "NG" version of this. I learned more than I anticipated needing to, on my quest for the perfect tankless water heater. The Bosch 800 series was my perfect model.
While it is now obvious to me why this model is head and shoulders above anything else, you may need to spend some time learning about tankless water heaters to see why it is so significant.
1) Ultra efficient, it has 92% efficiency. Only the top of the line models are this efficient. This means lower yearly costs.
2) Powerful: 10 gpm! This puppy can power most houses that have mutiple showers and sinks. It is their highest flow unit. It can also be daisy chained so another unit can be attached.
3) 15 year PRO warranty. Instead of the 5 year or 10 year of other models.
4) New Technology. This is the only Bosch unit to have the technology to create this efficiency and the cooling benefits.
5) Reliable. Even though it is cutting edge, some of its parts are based on the 715 unit that is very reliable.
6) Easy repair. Bosch has one of the most extensive list of certified repairmen. Also, unlike other companies, most of the parts can be replaced and are easily available, due to its popularity.
8) Low heat. This model has 2 condensers. That is why it is more efficient. The added benefit is that the heat coming out of this is like a hair dryer. Much MUCH cooler than most units.
9) PVC pipe can be used. I dont know of ANY other water heater that can be vented with PVC pipe. That means smaller pipes, easier work, and much cheaper. Normally water heaters need galvanized vent or Stainless steel venting which is extremely expensive. It can easily cost $300 or more.
10) Concentric Venting (one hole). Because the exhaust is so cool, you can use a Concentric Vent to combine both intake and exhaust from one hole (wall or roof). Without this a water heater need TWO 3 or 4 inch in diameter holes, at least 3 feet from each other. So the extremely hot exaust does not get used in the intake and overheat the unit.
NOTE:
I am just a consumer. I am not a guy that fixes these, nor do am I associated with a company that sells them. I just wanted a tankless & researched like crazy. Rheem, Takagi, and Rinnai were other companies who make products I considered.

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Rinnai V53e-LP Propane Outdoor Tankless Water Heater, 5.3 GPM Review

Average Reviews:

(More customer reviews)This tankless hot water heater is excellent. The only reason
I gave it 4 stars is that it didn't come with all the fittings
required to make it work. The lower price was definitely
increased after it took extra time, money and parts to
make it work. Now that it is working, it's fantastic and
far exceeds a previous system I used before.

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Rinnai's V53e exterior-mount tankless water heater efficiently delivers up to 5.3 gallons per minute (GPM) of hot water, making it perfect for your one- or two-bathroom home. This easy-to-install, ultra-compact unit lets you enjoy all the benefits of Rinnai tankless water heating. You'll experience clean, reliable hot water at a consistent pre-set temperature, while saving energy and precious floor space in your home.Meets California and Texas NOx Emissions StandardsEnergy Factor of .82 for Both Gas TypesIntegrated Error Code IndicatorCompatible with Full Line of Rinnai Digital ControllersTemperature Range with Controllers: 98°F - 140°F10-Year Warranty on Heat Exchanger, 5 Year Parts, 1 Year LaborDimensionsWidth: 13.75 InchesHeight: 20.88 InchesDepth: 6.75 InchesWeight34.2 PoundsInstallationOutdoor, Residential OnlyHot Water Capacity0.6 to 5.3 GPM at 35°F RiseApproved Gas TypesNatural Gas or PropaneMinimum/Maximum Gas Rate (Input BTUs)Natural Gas: 19,000 - 120,000 BTUPropane: 20,200 - 120,000 BTUEnergy FactorNatural Gas: 0.82Propane: 0.82Thermal EfficiencyNatural Gas: 82%Propane: 82%ElectricalAC 120 Volts, 60 HzElectrical ConsumptionNormal: 33 WattsStandby: 2 WattsAnti-Frost Protection: 74 WattsGas ConnectionGas Supply: ¾ Inch MNPTCold Water Inlet: ¾ Inch MNPTHot Water Outlet: ¾ Inch MNPTTemperature Settings120°F (factory default) or 140°

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Sylvania SA307 40 Amp 240-Volt Double-Pole Zip Set Industrial Timer Review

Average Reviews:

(More customer reviews)I bought this timer to control my water heater. The unit itself appears attractive & reasonably well-constructed. However, the instructions are quite confusing and not at all user-friendly. Neither do the timing functions make sense. For some unknown reason, using the Zip-Set feature requires setting the clock to U.S. Eastern Time rather than your local time. This makes setting all subsequent on-off times confusing. Far worse--each of the 4 programmable timers seems to allow only 1 on and 1 off setting, forcing you to choose between 7-day, weekday, or weekend mode for that timer, with only 1 on/off option for it. Worse still, only one timer can be active at any given time, so you have to manually switch from one timer to another to activate the one you want next. I spent a couple of hours with a voltmeter programming & experimenting, so I'm confident this is correct. If anyone can correct me, I'd be delighted to be wrong. In other words, to set up, say, a morning on/off plus an afternoon on/off, with different set times for weekday and weekend, would require using all 4 timers AND you'd have to manually switch timers twice a day. The only way to "set and forget" is to pick 1 timer, set it on 7-day mode, program in 1 on/off time, and then use manual override for any other times you might want to heat water. If that's good enough for you, then buy this unit. Otherwise, find another. Given the hours of frustration I experienced, plus the poor result, I would have never bought this unit if I had known how it operated.

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The Sylvania SA307 Zip-Set Digital Commercial Time Switch saves you time and worry by automatically controlling lighting, air conditioning units, pool, filters, heaters, signage, and more. By simply entering your area code, you can set the Time Switch to automatically turn on lights at sunset and adjust for seasonal time changes. Additional options for random or programmable settings, as well as a manual control option, make this switch easily customizable to meet your needs. Just set it and forget it--no trippers to mess with and no readjustments necessary.
Designed for Versatility and DurabilityYou can program the SA307 Zip-Set Time Switch to control commercial lighting, office lighting, parking lot lighting and signage, air conditioning units, pool filters, spas, fountains, and electric water heaters. The 40 amp, double pole, single throw SA307 Time Switch mounts easily to the wall and is used for 240-volt loads. Also, it features durable metal construction and unbreakable, tamperproof housing to protect against vandalism.
Simple One-Step SetupWith innovative Zip-Set Technology, the SA307 Zip-Set Time Switch can be programmed to turn on lights at sunset by simply entering your area code. Since it automatically adjusts for seasonal time changes, the Zip-Set Time Switch never will require reprogramming. For further convenience, a daylight saving switch keeps the time current, and you can also set the amount of time your lights remain on.
Programming Options to Meet Your NeedsThe SA307 Zip-Set Time Switch offers four additional independent on and off settings, as well as a random control option. Ideal for vacant spaces, the random setting adds security by making it look as if a space is occupied when it's not.
For manual control, simply press the on/off button located on the front of the timer. You can also use the 7-5-2 feature, which allows you to set times based on the full seven-day full, five-day work week, or two-day weekend.
Battery Backup Keeps Your Settings ActiveIn the event of a power failure, the battery backup system keeps your settings active, so you won't have to reprogram the Timer. The batteries are included and should be replaced every two years.
Warranty InformationThe Sylvania SA307 Zip-Set Digital Commercial Time Switch is backed by a one-year warranty.
What's in the BoxSylvania SA307 Zip-Set Digital Commercial Time Switch and two CR2032 batteries.

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Bosch 2400ES NG AquaStar 6.4 GPM Indoor Tankless Natural Gas Water Heater Review

Average Reviews:

(More customer reviews)I wanted to write an honest review of this product since I couldn't find much online about on-demand hot water heaters. Our tank broke, flooding the basement, and we wanted to look into alternative ways to heat our water efficiently. We're in Boston and the tap water here is about 45 degrees.
The way this works is that when you turn on the hot water in the house, the unit senses the water flow and begins to heat up a set of pipes inside. As the water passes through, it's heated to about 122 degrees.
The pros:
- It works normally, just like before. I turn on hot water, I get hot water.
- You don't experience any standby losses of having a tank - Gas is only used when you are actually using hot water saving both money and energy.
- The water is very hot in the shower. We can also use the dishwasher OR the washing machine with the shower. All three would probably not work well.
- There's no footprint. You put this on the wall, and it's vented outside.
- If something breaks, you replace a part rather than the entire tank, saving time and money.
- If it breaks, there's no flooding!
- We received rebates from both the gas company and from the federal government through a tax credit for the "green" purchase.
The cons:
- It costs more than a traditional tank to both purchase and install. We paid about $1000 for the unit itself, and an additional $1000 to have it installed. We had to have someone drill a new vent (both out and intake), put in stainless steel and PVC piping, and re-route the hot water in our basement.
- It takes a few seconds to up to a minute for the water to heat up.
- It's more difficult to make incremental changes to water temperature.
- You cannot get a "trickle" of hot water. The unit needs a certain flow to start in order not to damage pipes.
All in all, we're extremely happy with this unit since the cons were more a matter of up front cost (but we'll save down the road) and lifestyle changes.

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Includes 2400ES Natural Gas Tankless Water Heater - 2400ES-NG-RE

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Eemax EX90 Electric Tankless Water Heater, Flow Controlled Review

Average Reviews:

(More customer reviews)I'm glad to see nobody else has bought one of these for their kitchen. I found lots of problems with mine:
1. There's a 3 second delay, causing a huge cold water sandwich, i.e., if you shut it off, or adjust it and it drops below the minimum flow, you'll get a huge wave of cold water for about six seconds, 3 for the delay, 3 more to warm up.
2. No more warm water trickle. In order to get half warm, half cold, you need to adjust the flow to 1.4 gallons/minute, hardly a small flow. The heater will not turn on unless 0.7 gpm flows in the hot water side.
3. Adjustment of temperature is a major job -- you need to shut off the dedicated breaker, remove the plate, and guess at where you want the setting, put the cover back on, restore the breaker. Then repeat the process until the temperature is correct.
4. It requires a dedicated 220 V 40 amp (for my model) line, an expensive item to install. And flourescent lights will flicker just a bit when the heater is on.
We like to wash small cups, silver, or a single dish or two by turning on a small warm or hot flow and rinsing, soaping, and rinsing in one stage, using a small amount of water. Then if we find another dish, it's nice to find the water is still warm. We can turn off and not waste the water between small washings. We've developed this habit due to the occasional water rationing we get here in CA.
Not so with the Eemax... Once you shut it off, you won't see hot water again for about 6 seconds. That's a lot of water down the drain. In general, this system is a huge water waster.
We find ourselves either scalding our hands, or washing in cold water. We paid for a new dedicated 220v line and breaker, and installation, which took a couple of days and cost a couple of grand. It was a collosal waste to buy this for a kitchen. I wouldn't want it in my bathroom either, no more running trickles of water for shaving, and either scalded hands or cold water washes.
The only good thing it does is provide the dish washer with very hot water. It works fine there, and I suppose I'll leave it there. But I'll have to add a small tank now for the hot water tap.
I suppose if you like to fill a sink with hot water for the wash, and again for the rinse, it might work for you. If that's always the way you work.
Save your money. Use a small tank for kitchen or bathroom, use the 110 volt existing line, and forget Eemax and equivalents!

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The Eemax EX90 "Flow Controlled" Electric Tankless Water Heater.Recommended cold water feed. Turn on flow .7 GPM, max 2 GPM.Eemax EX90 "Flow Controlled" Electric Tankless Water Heater Applications:; Kitchen Sinks ; Bar Sinks ; Utility Sinks ; Manufacturing Facilities ; Modular Buildings and Tenant Spaces ; Dual Handwash Sinks (DL) ; Hand Set Shower (.7 - 2 GPM) Eemax EX90 "Flow Controlled" Electric Tankless Water Heater Features:; On Demand Hot Water - no delay. ; Cut Energy Waste -flow switch activates heater only on demand (no standby heat loss). ; Continuous Hot Water - no storage capacity to run out. ; Reduces Installation Cost - no T & P relief valve needed (check local codes). ; Easy Installation - only one cold water line need be brought to lavatory. ; Mounts on wall at point-of-use. ; Hands Free - sensor and metering faucet compatible. ; Prevents Legionella Bacteria Growth ; Designed for Durability - constructed of high strength reinforced "ENGINEERING PLASTIC" ; Ni Chrome Element - a unique, patented flow path ensures optimum heat transfer and extended element life. ; Compact Size - dimensions 10.75"x5.25"x2.125"; Reduces Calcification. ; Space Saving Installation - under sink, point-of-use. ; Field Serviceable Element - replaceable cartridge element.; Complies with handicap requirements. Eemax EX90 "Flow Controlled" Electric Tankless Water Heater Specifications:; EX = Bottom Water Connection, 1/2" compression fittings; Volts 277V; KW 9.0kW; Amps 33A; Rise at .75 GPM 82;F; Rise at 1.0 GPM - 61;F; Rise at 1.5 GPM - 41;F; Rise at 2.0 GPM 31;F; Wire Size AWG 10; Dimensions - 10.75" x 5.25" x 2.125" ; Weight 3 lbs ; Element - Replaceable cartridge insert * The voltage, amperage, and circuit breaker specifications must be met for this heater to function. Please make sure all requirements are met before purchasing this heater. Manufacturer's start up procedures must be observed.

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