Showing posts with label bosch water heating. Show all posts
Showing posts with label bosch water heating. Show all posts

3/15/2012

Bosch AquaStar Natural Gas Tankless Water Heater #125HX-NG Review

Bosch AquaStar Natural Gas Tankless Water Heater #125HX-NG
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We have had the hydroignition Bosch 125 Natural Gas Tankless for a year and a half now. It is absolutely incredible. I have checked our gas bill each month for the first year and the minimum we have saved (gas usage, not gas bill) is 22% each month! We have used as much as 77% less gas than the same month the previous year. Unlimited hot water on demand! No drawbacks. Plus, it uses a small space compared to the dinosaur tank water heater we had before. It fits attached to a stud where it's out of the way!!!! I would NEVER go back to the traditional tank water heater. Temperature control is extremely simple. Don't let unknowledgeable plumbers steer you astray with ridiculous things like "the water doesn't get hot" UNTRUE!!!!! Those plumbers just don't know and don't care to know and are stuck in the plumbing dark ages. This is the only way to go. Bosch stands behind this product.

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1/21/2012

Rheem RTE 7 Electric Tankless Water Heater, 2.5 GPM Review

Rheem RTE 7 Electric Tankless Water Heater, 2.5 GPM
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I bought this thinking it would work for a sink or small shower w/ water saver head on it. Wrong! it won't put out "hot" or even Warm unless the faucet is almost off at .5 gpm(.4 is the min reqd to activate the unit).... What the heck is .5 gpm useful for? I bought it because it is listed as 2.5 gpm. don't go off that. the factory rep told me these are intended for folks in warmer states with warm ground water.But if the water is that warm comeing out of the ground I don't think I would need a HEATER:)
7KW - 240v is alot i can't figure out why it can't keep up with even 1-2 gpm!?! the unit is flawless in it self other than not heating enuf.

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10/11/2011

Bosch AQ4 Water Heater Vent Kit Review

Bosch AQ4 Water Heater Vent Kit
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I have to say, why would there be so many "USED" kits available? I went to a service call where the plumber actually caused a fire by installing one of these improperly. It's not that difficult. When you are considering installing one of these, first consider the total cost of the 125 series heater and the vent cost and you are up around the cost of many other brands which are already power vented and have far more advanced features. The 125 series Bosch water heaters are little work horses but must be maintained. The fan housings in the AQ must be cleaned s they can and do load up with dust, dirt and provide habitat for nesting insects. The average homeowner is going to have a hard time installing this, even plumbers who have installed Bosch water heaters will shy away from these kits in favor of internal power vent models. This is like putting rubber tires on a covered wagon. Due diligence is worth every minute spent before mis-spending you $$$

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AQ4 Sidewall Power Vent Kit â¤" For use with tankless water heaters TV # 734077 (1600H NG ) and TV # 734063 (1600H LP). Kit, Includes Power Vent Motor, Vent Termination Hood With Freeze Prevention Flapper, Tube of High Temperature Sealant to Seal Pipe Seams, 5" To 4" Vent Reducer, Water Flow Activation Switch & Tubing, Control Cables, Mounting Hardware, Vibration Isolation Bushings, Linear Spill Switch, Instructions & Termination Template, Allows Safe Horizontal Venting Up To 25 feet with a Discreet 8" Outside Termination Hood. 45 Second Post Purge & Linear Safety Switch, Power Input 120V & 1.4A With 3 prong grounded Cord, Maximum Vent Distance 25 feet With 1 Elbow, Minimum Vent Distance 2 foot Straight Pipe Before Fan, Maximum Elbows 3 At 90 Degrees & 6 At 45 Degrees, 4 inch Vent Diameter, Vent Material can be 26 gauge single wall, Not Included In AQ4 Kit, CSA Approved.

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9/22/2011

Bosch 1000P LP AquaStar 2-3/5 GPM Indoor Tankless Gas Water Heater Review

Bosch 1000P LP AquaStar 2-3/5 GPM Indoor Tankless Gas Water Heater
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I wanted to wait until my heater was completely vetted and it proves wise as it had a problem after about 2 months that may come to help other customers. So the negs:
After 2 months use the heater all of sudden literally went from flame on working to stopped cold, pilot out. The only clue I had was that the pilot would come back on - only while I had the gas button depressed on - but the flame was very yellow indicating a gas rich flame (too much gas/air mixture). The solution was in the manual which you can download from the product page above the item #. So the remedy in my case was to clean the throttle tube which is best done with automotive carb or injection cleaner. This is part of a regular maintenance cycle anyway but it happened soon on mine. Even a small amount of gas soot in the tube was causing an over-rich mixture of gas.
There are only a few other minor issues with this heater such as the discrepancies between the manual and the heater: the cold water inlet is 3/4" and located facing the back of the heater toward the wall and the manual lists it as a 1/2". This really makes getting a copper heater hose on there a trick but I wouldn't recommend using anything smaller in diameter hose than that as your water flow is limited by that size input. Similarly the hot output which is the copper pipe hanging down exposed will limit your output quite a lot and I recommend increasing the size after the supplied 1/2" hose to 3/4 at least.
A very confusing marking on the heater is the temp control knob indicator: turning it CLOCKWISE increases the temperature by also reducing the amount of water it takes to activate the flame (activation rate). Turning it COUNTER-CLOCKWISE reduces the temp and increases the amount of water it takes to activate the flame. The indicator marker is reverse to normal hot water heaters: there is a widening strip of black above the knob but it widens toward the counter-clockwise direction whereas normally the widening of that strip marks hotter this one marks cooler (zoom the pic and you'll see). The manual is not very clear about this knob and it's key to understand the activation rate.
The last discrepancy is in the size of gas pipe you would use, the manual tells you not to use a smaller diameter than 1/2 but that is nearly impossible if you use the correct size regulator on your tank (74,900 BTU see my install tips below).
One last small gripe is purging this heater of air in the gas line is a very tedious process.
Now the positives:
I have run the heater with only a sink on the lower of the 2 flame settings with the temp control nearly all the way up. This gets the water hotter than I can touch it. And it will run for over a month on 5 gal. of propane with daily use. The heater itself is fairly easy to put together all in all once you have the vent installed the rest is basic plumbing.
Install tips:
Starting with the external regulator at the tank as others have mentioned you will want 1 that gives you exactly 74,900 BTU (this is common for hi-temp grills and the like Mr. heater products). My Mr. heater regulator output is 3/8" pipe thread which is the nominal gauge for this class of gas flow still considered low use. So 1 way or the other you're going to want to increase the size back to 1/2 which is how the heater connects. I used a 3/4" stainless flex tube to go between the inside and outside. Then reduced back down to 1/2 using a tee to make a drip leg with a 6" pipe nipple that drops straight down below the heater while the fuel line comes in horizontal. The one thing that can't be stressed enough is to keep your water lines as large as possible. Mine are 1" down to a 3/4 flex copper hose on the inlet and 3/4 rigid copper on the output past the 1/2" initial. Once you have the heater connected the only trick is to bleed the air out of the lines. The manual doesn't really tell you much about this process except that eventually when you hold down the gas and strike the lighter after a few min. it will light. Well there is an easier way but unless you have adequate venting you don't want to attempt it. My heater is in front of a window so I can open it and crack the flare fitting of my flex line. You really only let air out anyway and the minute you smell consistent gas (strong garlic an onion as Lp has no odor so it's scented) you shut it down. This puts out no more gas than an oven lighting up and is a much quicker route to getting air free. It still may take a few tries at lighting by striking every few seconds and holding the gas down but it's better than doing that for several minutes.
All in all this is a good heater for a sink and a shower, if I were to add a shower I would definitely continue the raised copper lines which run through my ceiling and a shut off valve so that the water would not sit cold in the lines. A great trick with this heater is when you open a water valve it lights up and heats the water that flows through it. So by opening a valve to the shower you would have nearly instant hot water. I also make use of a very small 25W electric water heater that sits right in front of the Bosch and this keeps water hot straight up to the tap.

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Includes 1000P Point-of-Use Liquid Propane Gas Tankless Water Heater - 1000P-LP-RE

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9/18/2011

Bosch 1600H LP AquaStar 4.3 GPM Indoor Tankless Liquid Propane Water Heater Review

Bosch 1600H LP AquaStar 4.3 GPM Indoor Tankless Liquid Propane Water Heater
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Installed 4 weeks ago and it was done in a day. Note you need a 5" vent pipe so figure replacing your old 3". Water is hot in about 10 to 15 sec.. Would buy again!

Click Here to see more reviews about: Bosch 1600H LP AquaStar 4.3 GPM Indoor Tankless Liquid Propane Water Heater

Bosch, 1 Major Appliance Or Shower At A Time, Hydro Ignition, LP Tankless Water Heater, Hydro Ignition Means No Standing Pilot Or Electricity Needed, Water Flow Spins The Hyrdro Igniter Which Generates The Millivolts Needed To Ignite The Gas To The Burners, 117,000 BTU Input Delivers 3.3 Gallons Per Minute At A 55 Degree Fahrenheit Rise, Standing Pilot, 1/2 Gallon Flow To Activate Burners, Vertical Venting Only, Must Use 5" Double Wall B Vent Pipe, Modulating Gas Valve From 28,000 To 117,000 BTU's For Optimal Performance, 1/2" Male Nominal Pipe Thread Gas And Water Connections, Natural Gas Pressure, Minimum 7" Water Column To Maximum 14" Water Column, Water Pressure Minimum 18 PSI To Maximum 150 PSI, 69% Energy Factor, 80% Thermal Efficiency, T & P Valve Included, Warranty 12 Years On Heat Exchanger & 2 Years On Parts, CSA Certified.

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8/22/2011

Bosch AE125 PowerStar 4 GPM Indoor Electric Tankless Water Heater, White Review

Bosch AE125 PowerStar 4 GPM Indoor Electric Tankless Water Heater, White
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I purchased the Bosch AE125 Electric Tankless Water Heater 4 months ago and have regretted it. Several considerations should be taken.
First the unit is not an analogue to a conventional tank-type water heater. It delivers hot water based upon a system that measures the incoming water temperature and flow rate and then "calculates" the number of elements (it actually has 6) that it turns on to provide an outflow temperature based on the setting of the temperature control. This system is not satisfactory for a water supply which varies in pressure, SUCH AS A WELL, as the unit itself provides substantial resistance to flow and thus the flow rate through the unit varies and thus the temperature of the outgoing water. This causes the delivered water to vary widely in temperature, from VERY HOT to VERY COLD. The unit would be improved if it was "smart enough" to not only measure incoming temp, but, also, outgoing temperature and flow rate and maintain the outgoing temp at a constant level.
Second: The unit has a flow sensor, which will shut the heaters off at low flow, so, therefore, if you wish to have a small amount of hot water flowing into your sink for shaving purposes, the water will not be heated at all. This "Feature" also has considerable influence on the use of "low flow" faucets.
Third: If you have a home which is heated by electricity and you install this unit, be aware that it consumes 120 AMPS at maximum heat rate. In my case, my electric heat consumes 120 Amps, also; my home has a 200AMP panel. Do the math, turn on the heat to warm the house and then take a bath, and suddenly the entire house is plunged into darkness. I have decided that I must sense when the water heater is turned on and prevent the central heat from coming on. This should be doable, and since the unit only runs when hot water is required, should disable the central heat only for short periods. HOWEVER, this is a feature that should be provided by Bosch and/or their literature should make clear to the potential purchaser that this is a problem with the electric heater.
Fourth: The unit apparently switches one or more of its six elements on or off as it attempts to heat the water. There does not appear to be any partially on for any of the elements. This leads to the problem of "stepped" heating of the water. And because the unit measures flow in and calculates the outgoing rate, if the water is mildly too hot or too cold, simply changing the mix at the faucet does not necessarily result in mild changes in temperature, a tiny change at the faucet can cause one or all of the elements to switch off resulting in a dramatic change at the faucet. AGAIN an argument for sensing the outgoing temperature and maintaining it by modulating the elements for a smoother temperature curve.
I would rate this unit as unsatisfactory for any home with a well, and only marginally acceptable for any home with electric heat (but only if modified as I indicated above).
Had I known then, what I know now, I would have saved myself a lot of money and frustration by purchasing a conventional tank-type water heater.

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8/13/2011

Bosch AE115 PowerStar 2.6 GPM Indoor Whole House Electric Tankless Water Heater Review

Bosch AE115 PowerStar 2.6 GPM Indoor Whole House Electric Tankless Water Heater
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I have used these units in several buildings. The biggest building being an 8 unit building all with 1 bedroom apartments. Each apartment has it own hot water heater.
We have OVER a 60% fail rate. First you do a LOT of electrical work to get to the point of being able to install it. Then you put it in and this what progresses:
- day one works great and you think "what a great idea I had"...
- few weeks or months later it is hot for a minute, then warm, then cold as it runs
- you reset the unit try and test everything, it works ok you think
- get a call a day later it is the same warm then cold then warm showers
- you take it out and return it to the store.
I have replaced 3 yes THREE in one single apartment alone. All in all I bought 8, for an 8 unit building, and have installed either new or replacements 18, in a eight unit building that only has 8 on any given day, at this time. I am a whiz at getting them in and out.
So if you are looking to waste money and a LOT of time as you replace it and try and fix it etc this is for you. These could not even sustain a 1 bedroom with ONE tenant. All my units have a single tenant in them....
I did call the company and they are very nice. The guy I was talking with was a technician on what they called the "pro side" for builders professional etc. I explained everything to him and told him of my fail rate and he said that was possible. So they know of the problem, over 60% fail rate did NOT even phase him, he obviously had heard about this plenty of times before me......


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7/28/2011

Bosch GL2.5 Ariston 2-1/2-Gallon Point-of-Use Indoor Electric Mini-Tank Water Heater Review

Bosch GL2.5 Ariston 2-1/2-Gallon Point-of-Use Indoor Electric Mini-Tank Water Heater
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I bought two GL2.5 water heaters in 3/2006 & installed one for a master bedroom and the other for the kitchen sink w/a T to dishwasher. Very nice to have hot water fast. Otherwise have to wait for it to come from attic quite some distance. BUT the directions suggest CLEANING it out every year. This pretty much means uninstall it if in a tight location! Turn upside down to drain, descale element and REPLACE ANODE! Every YEAR! Have you ever done that with a water heater... and they last 10 yrs. no problem! Well here, I did not do that & the first started to fail in late 2007. The thermostat breaker would kick off & I would reset it. Then that stopped working and I ordered a replacement thermostat in 4/2008 from Grainger. That worked & then we had our main circuit breaker kicking off easy. I think it was shorting through the mineral deposits! Unknown to me at the time... Then the tank fails mid-2009. Soon in Fall 2009 the 2nd unit had a tank failure (fyi, it never had the breaker or thermostat trip first). Both units were a mess to clean up. Lucky we were home. These are not safe w/o access and the recommended pan. The pan should be deep and have a drain & water alarm. The yearly service MUST be done. Just not worth it so I put everything back the way it was originally. Why not use a better tank and design? How they are now is asking for trouble unless you are very good w/scheduled preventive maintenance.

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